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Linea de Espera

Posted July 20th, 2010 by admin | No Comments
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When I was waiting in line to make my train reservation the other day, I couldn't help but stair at the markings on the floor of the ticket lounge -- on the floor, between each line and the counter, was a big white line with these words printed in red:  "LINEA DE ESPERA".  With four years of Latin in college and recently 3 years devoted to the study of Italian, well, I couldn't help but see the amusement in the fact that the Spanish verb for "waiting" had the same root as the noun for hope, "esperanza".  And I couldn't help but think about the amount of time we all spend in our lives, standing in the "Line of Hope", while we wait for one thing or another to come true for us, and on our better days, for our world.

And so I rise again today, in a strange city, working with teachers and singers that I do not know, and I take my place on the Linea de Espera as I work to learn a new language and a new way of communicating through music.  May your day on the Line of Hope go well for you too...

Goodbye, Seville…Hello Granada

Posted July 18th, 2010 by admin | No Comments
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A funny thing happens to me when I'm travelling like I am this summer...I forget that I am travelling.  Yes, I start to think that this is my life (which it is, actually) and I start to think that, well, I live here.  I seek out the signs of settlement -- grocery stores, places to

Toro del Orro as seen from the river on my last night

pick up the little needs in life like pharmacies, places to wash my clothes and get them cleaned, where to pick up my favorite tea -- places like that.

And the same thing that usually happens to me happened today...just as I started to "settle in" at a hotel in a certain city, it was time to move.  And that is always a little unsettling.

My general tolerance as a guest in a city is, well, 3 days (guests and fish, remember?).  On the fourth day, I am a resident.

Today, however, was day 5 and time to get on the train and move to Granada.  And that I did, with great success.  Although now I'm a tourist again, at least for a couple of days.

My new address, if you are following my travels, is the Hesperia Granada...so far a quite pleasant hotel with an excellent air conditioner.  And that air conditioner is pretty important, even if it is cooler here in Granada than it was yesterday in Seville (109 degrees yesterday, only 96 degrees here today).  And tomorrow, it is back to the confronting the world of music.  I cannot say that I face that task without trepidation, but I will face it.  And we will see just what God has to say about this choice that I've made.

Carmen lives…

Posted July 17th, 2010 by admin | No Comments
General, Travel |

I love to visit museums when I travel.

The ones that I love most, however, are the quirky little museums that are off the beaten path.  I’ve enjoyed many of them in my travels:  the Musée de Dame aux Camelias, somewhere in the Normandy countryside of France (where I saw the personal items of the woman who created such a stir in 19th century Paris, and who comes to us in the opera La Traviata and the classic movie Camille);  the Musée de la Vie Romantique in the 18th Arrondisment in Paris, the Franz Liszt House in Budapest.

And today, I added to the list – I went to the Museo de Bailir Flamenco in Seville (The Museum of the Flamenco Dance).

It was an accident, really.  I didn’t have a plan for today, I’ve been kind of tired and tomorrow I move on to Granada for learning and singing (that is different than learning and sight-seeing, which is a lot more relaxing but equally exhausting), so I thought I would have an easy day of it, do a little shopping, visit the Plaza d’Espana from the Spanish-American exhibition, an event that created the sister relationship with my town of origin, Kansas City, and maybe end the day with a boat ride on the Guadalquivir River.

As I ambled across town to the shopping district, I saw the sign – Museo de Bailir Flamenco.  And I thought, why not.

Why not, indeed.  I arrived, bought my ticket.  Apparently I was the first person that day, because I had to wait while the young woman at the desk ran upstairs to start the exhibits (It was a multi-media museum).  But that wait was priceless—in the next room, there was either a rehearsal or a class, a room full of young women in long flamenco dress, learning the basic steps of their art.  What was so fascinating, however, was how very different  this class was from any dance class I had ever taken or observed.  The dance master would demonstrate a step, then, instead of the class performing the step in some sort of synchronous pattern as the music played, instead each participant took the step and attempted to make it her own in response to the music that was playing.  Some turned it into a slow, elegant, smooth movement; others repeated it rapidly over and over again, but each danced to their own step and their own feeling of the music.

I went upstairs to the exhibits and spent a fascinated magic hour, standing in exhibit after exhibit, surrounded by life-size flamenco dancers demonstrating technique, style, and the language of flamenco; I heard interviews from lifelong practitioners of the art of flamenco; I saw costumes and shoes and heard about the careers of great artists known only in their world of dance; and I marveled at how this artistic tradition was so carefully transplanted to Mexico and Latin America, and how I have seen it even in the dances of my fellow church goers who come from the culture of El Salvador.

And,  I was amazed to realize that I still harbor the flame of Carmen in my very own soul. You see, I want to blame the fact that I learned to sing opera on my first voice teacher, and he certainly did play a role.  But the real villain in this little story is one cigarette girl named Carmen.

I remember the day that I first experienced the opera Carmen (by Georges Bizet).  I was newly divorced, and, as many newly divorced women do, I was setting out on the new adventure of doing what I want when I want to do it.  There was a notice in the Kansas City Star about a community performance of Carmen in a church near the Country Club Plaza (a shopping mall designed to look like a miniature “Seville”, and the first shopping center constructed in the United States, according to Kansas City mythology), and I went.  I was mesmerized by the gypsy and her adventures, the romance with the policeman, the romance with the bullfighter, the way that she faced her death at the end of the opera.  And I have been mesmerized ever since.  The first arias I learned were Carmen’s:  I sing them still whenever I get a chance. 

But I thought that I had accepted that, well, I was long past ever performing the role of Carmen on the stage.  No one would possibly cast me, I thought, and I moved on to Wagner and Verdi and heavier, less romantic literature.

As I wander the streets of Seville, however, and in particular as I wandered through the Flamenco museum, I can tell, she is not out of my system.   I see her in my fashion choices, my jewelry choices –she’s in there, just waiting to get out.

Every time I think that I am at peace with no longer singer opera, I encounter Carmen.  And today was no exception.  Who knows what will happen after I actually go to the flamenco show tonight?

Breakfast

Posted July 16th, 2010 by admin | No Comments
General, Travel |

I just had breakfast in a lovely courtyard, next to a running fountain, with a cool breeze blowing, here at my hotel in Seville, the Vincci la Rabida.  Breakfast is my favorite part of vacation, in so many ways. And my favorite meal in general.

I don’t know about you, but I can still here my mother’s voice saying “Breakfast is the most important meal of the day.”

But things that we accept as nutritional and scientific givens are, like so many other things, also cultural in nature.  For you see, in Spain, as in Italy, they do not eat breakfast as we know it.  Breakfast is coffee and a roll, maybe a pastry.  And no one raised them to believe that breakfast was a nutritionally important meal for their life and well-being. 

The Breakfast Patio, Seville

My knowledge that there is a cultural lack of acceptance of breakfast as a meal figures greatly into my hotel selection process.  Because most of the people who come to countries like Spain and Italy eat a substantial breakfast (namely British and American tourists, and those kings of the breakfast buffet, the Germans), good hotels in both those countries work hard at providing a good and appealing breakfast buffet.  And I do know how to find that information on their websites—the fact that they feel it important to include a picture of their breakfast spread is usually a good clue.

Here at the Vincci la Rabida, they do an especially nice job with breakfast.  You can eat in the white-table-cloth restaurant, or on the tasteful all-too-Spanish patio in the courtyard.  In addition to a magnificent spread of fresh fruit, juices, cheeses, and meats, they have a full range of Spanish ‘tapas” items that for us mean breakfast and for them mean snack food – the tortilla Espanola with tomato sauce, plates of seranno ham and manchego cheese – AND they have standard British breakfast items like sausages and beans with scrambled eggs.  Oh yes, and in this land of cured pork products, they have the most amazing bacon, bacon that has only been rivaled in my affection by the bacon from Edwards of Surrey, VA, that I ate at the Blue Moon Diner the last time I was in Charlottesville.

So, if sometime you are having a discussion with me about hotels any time in the future, chances are my review will have more to do with the quality of the breakfast (and also the environs in which the breakfast is consumed, very, very important) than the quality of the rooms or the service:  I’m more likely to talk about the time I stayed at the Hotel Danieli in Venice and had breakfast on a rooftop patio overlooking the Grand Canal, or the Westin in Berlin, with the never-ending supply of smoked salmon and the view that overlooked Unter den Lindenstrasse, or the Hotel Brufani in Perugia with fruit and a tea service to die for; or, last but not least the El Dorado Royal on the Riviera Maya south of Cancun, with its chocolate fondue fountains and churros.

Mama told me that breakfast was important – she never told me it was romantic!

Restoring the Choir…

Posted July 15th, 2010 by admin | No Comments
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My first morning in Seville, I chose to visit churches.

Is anyone who knows me surprised about that?  I think not.

So, today I started at the Cathedral of Seville.  In case you don’t know, this Cathedral is the 3rd largest in the world (on St. Peter’s in Rome and St. Paul’s in London are larger), and the largest in Spain and was built on the site of a mosque destroyed during the Reconquista recovery of Seville by the Christian kings.  The famous tower, the Giralda, is the only part of the original mosque that was retained – kept as a souvenir of conquest.

Now, I have been in a lot of cathedrals and churches around the world (again, surprise…NOT) but this one was a completely different experience.   Frankly, I have never seen so much gilt and silver in any church, not even in Rome.  It was completely overwhelming – beautiful, but I have never seen a more over-the-top expression of the Baroque/Rococo period ever.  Not anywhere.

So I wandered and I wondered, and then I stopped in the middle of the space (I hesitate to call it a sanctuary, the proportions are so large)…and, as you so often see in a cathedral such as this, there was a huge tower of scaffolding.  Restoration in progress.  And on the famous carved choir of the Seville Cathedral, with its carved wooden seats made in the 15th and 16th centuries. 

I was completely entranced, because, as I peeked through the scaffolding, I saw twenty industrious souls cleaning and scrubbing every inch of wood carving. All I could think about was two weeks ago at Calvary, when people volunteered their Saturday to come and clean the woodwork in preparation for the American Guild of Organists event.  Now, I’m pretty certain that the people I saw this morning were not volunteers – they were most likely restoration specialists or at the very least, students the restoration sciences, but I couldn’t escape the parallel. 

I stood and watched the work as it continued, and then I moved on to see the rest of the Cathedral – the 30 chapels, the garden of orange trees, the tomb of Christopher Columbus…but I just couldn’t shake this image of all of these people working together to restore the choir.  We work so hard to maintain these buildings that we call our church and clearly the city of Seville devotes considerable time, money and effort to maintain this magnificent cathedral, and the Iglesia El Divino Salvador that I saw later in the morning.  And yet, in both of those buildings, I was surrounded with art and sculpture and an ostentatious show of wealth that had nothing to do with the spiritual, that in fact, was created by the hard work and probably the deaths of many indigenous peoples on the North American continent.

It was an unsettling reminder that, as we move on our journey of faith, we must continually question ourselves regarding our motives and our intent.  It is a particularly thorny question for those of us in the arts. I’m sure that some of the original builders and artists and artisans that were responsible for what I saw today genuinely believed that they were using their gifts for the glory of God.   For some, it was just a job -- another commission. 

Just something to ponder when it is 102 degrees outside, which it is here.

Vaya a Sevilla…Day 30

Posted July 14th, 2010 by admin | No Comments
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Private balcony at the Hotel Regina, MadridI thought that I would take advantage of the fact that I am awake and that this hotel has a great internet connection.  And so I sit on my balcony in Madrid and say, welcome to Day 30 and the end of my committment to contribute to the ever growing stream of bits and bites on the internet with my daily blog entry.  And I want to take a moment to thank Pastor Amy for the idea and for being a good and gentle guide to start me on a road that, well, I wouldn't have taken (like she has never done that before).

The only problem is, I don't think I'll quit.  I think that I will keep going.  My basic impulse is to commit to another 30 days, and then maybe another 30 days, and another.  After I pondered that idea for a few moments, I thought that I would like to see just how I continue if I don't have a committment and peer pressure to keep me going.

I think I'll keep going, without a boundary or an endpoint.  That's life, isn't it, anyway?  If I falter along the way, I know that I have good friends and community to pick me up and keep me going.

Today, after a short walk around part of Madrid that I haven't seen, I'm off to the train station and on to Seville.  For years, I've sung the aria from Carmen:  "Pres des Ramparts de Seville"...and I'm going to go see those ramparts.  And a few other things.

And last night, I had the opportunity to remember that I am not totally invisible.  It has been a long time since three different men have tried to pick me up.  Apparently Spain was not a good country to visit without me "leave me alone, I'm taken" ring to wear.

So, for the next few weeks, you may hear more about Spain and my travel adventures than you will the deep evaluation of the relationship between music and theology (although one never knows what travel will bring to me--I have a lot of time to think without too much disturbance).  And, I promise to keep writing.  Until I don't.

Buenas tardes…Day 29

Posted July 13th, 2010 by admin | No Comments
General, Music, Travel |

Museo del Prado

Yes, I have arrived.  Greetings from Madrid.

My trip itself was, gratefully, uneventful.  Interesting seat mate that made the first part of the journey less than comfortable, but that is flying in the modern world for most of us. 

The biggest problem I have at the moment is where to have dinner and, oh yes, the fact that I haven't slept for about 30 hours straight.

I don't sleep on planes under the best of conditions.  And my tried and true method for combatting jet lag is, well, don't go to sleep until your normal bed time.  Make yourself walk and be in the sunlight; eat meals when it is meal time in your new time zone.  Oh yes, and never ever forget your No Jet Lag pills when travelling.  I swear by them and have used them for four years now.  No jet lag, ever, when I use them as directed.

Of course, sometimes the trudging around in the sun can get a little old.  Those are the moments that even this non-coffee drinker turns to espresso.  I had my first of the trip today at cafe at Museo del Prado, where I spent the entire afternoon surrounded by the creative work of Velazquez, Goya, Rafael, Titian, Rubens, Tintoretto and more.   And I had my first meal in Madrid at a wonderful fresh juice and salad bar.

And just for those who like to keep up with my travel tips, well, I'm staying at the Hotel Regina.  Just up the street from the center of trendy and touristy Madrid (Puerto del Sol), it is a newly renovated, medium class hotel with a restaurant and rooms that are far away from what I am told will be the busy noisy street later today.  The air conditioning is a little weak, but well, this is Europe and to be expected.  But the real prize of this room is -- I have a patio that is all mine...no view to speak of, but a patio with furniture nonetheless.  I'll let you know what i really think about the hotel after I sample the breakfast in the morning. 

But while I recount my many eating and lodging exploits, let not any of us lose sight of the fact that this trip is about music and well, about my journey in general.  And even if I wanted to focus on my tapas choices for tonight, I can't escape.  Here is just one small example.

I ended my walk at Puerto del Sol, using what little energy I had left to see the main shopping streets of El Centro.  I stopped in the music department and went down to the classical section (why does it seem that classical music is always in the basement these days?)--and, on the video screens in that section of the store there was the most amazing thing -- some sort of amazing flamenco show with this woman singing at the top of her lungs (and sounding frighteningly like me).  I was totally mesmerized, it was unlike anything that I had ever seen or heard.  And in this store there was row after row of flamenco recordings and DVD's the like of which I had never seen.

I haven't mentioned this before, but as I worked on the music to prepare for this trip, I found the music a little unnerving -- it stimulates an odd part of my soul.  I will admit I'm a little afraid of it -- but I just can't look away.

I remember when I first started to work on German art songs.  Truth is, when I started that journey, I didn't speak German and I didn't know anything about German music as a genre.  Well, 10 years and a lot of recitals and language classes later, I'm not a half bad singer of German art songs.  I have the feeling that this is the beginning of another such journey.

So, here we go again folks.  I'm excited to see new things and have the chance to learn something new.  And now, I think I run over to the Museo de Jamon for a little dinner.

Strange Day…Day 28

Posted July 12th, 2010 by admin | No Comments
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Okay, today is a strange day.  It is not a strange day because I am leaving on a trip, I do that often enough.  It is not strange because the bed is currently full of clothing that will probably never all fit into the suitcase.  That is way too normal.

It is strange first because, well, I am weirdly calm.  I was pretty wound up the past few days and I thought that it was because I was nervous about the trip.  But, once I finished my paper yesterday, this unusual sense of calm settled upon me. 

The second, and truly most monumental reason that today is strange is -- I was just ironing.

Okay, my iron isn't THAT old...

Oh, laugh if you will, but my hands have not touched an iron since I gave up seamstressing.  Yes, seamstressing.  Ever since that day when I gave away the sewing machine that I had been given as a highschool graduation present, no ironing has taken place by these hands.  I had to dig in the closet to find the iron and the miniature iron board (which I kept just in case, when I gave away all my other seamstressing paraphanalia).  To date, if something needed ironing, it went straight to the cleaners.  After all, they have the professional equipment, right?  Who am I to interfere with the practice of a craft...

But this morning I rose early to pack, took my newly acquired bottle of spray starch and carefully sprayed and rolled each skirt as my mother taught me so many years ago, and then, just a few minutes ago, I carefully (okay, not carefully, quickly) pressed each skirt so that the wrinkles would be minimal when I arrive at my destination.

I hardly know what to say....am I calm because I'm ironing, or did I take time to iron because I am finally calm? 

I know that many new adventures await. I simply can't wait to tell you about them...

Perspective and Music, Part 2….Day 27

Posted July 11th, 2010 by admin | No Comments
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As promised, today we talk about the perspective from the view of the performer and of the audience...

The performer’s job is to combine the work of the librettist and the composer, add to it their own humanity, and bring that work and the character they are assigned to life on the stage. The performer’s perspective is something that I can speak to from my own personal experience.  But it is a difficult thing to describe to someone who is not a performer. 

As a performer, we pick up the score of an opera and we begin to study.  And that study requires all of our very being:  you need your intellect to deal with the mechanics of the music, the mechanics of what is most likely a foreign language (which hopefully you speak at least a little).  Your body must engage to actually learn the music, to memorize the text, and eventually (if you are lucky enough to be performing a fully staged version of the work) to learn blocking and physical gestures needed to bring the work to life on the stage.  And in the midst of all that, you must be able to access your soul and your spirit, so that you can find the humanity in the characters you portray – so that you can empathize, and feel—all the while counting to 12 before you walk stage right and pick up the hat. In short, as a performer, you are in a completely prepared state to receive the message of the text and be influenced by it, as you are completely open to the work during the preparation time.

There is a word used in opera circles to describe a great performance, a performance that supersedes the physical limitations of all the parts of the opera production, a performance that is that creates the kind of magic which communicates that which cannot be communicated through words and music:  that word is “demented”.  A demented performance is a transcendent performance, and changes the listener and the performer by their very participation in the moment.  Now that is the ability to create social change.

And what about the audience?  You might think that the audience perspective is a passive one, but it is not.  First, without an audience, even if it is only one person, there is no performance and therefore there is no communication and no sharing.  Saliers points out that Christianity is a faith that must be heard, that the experience of God is

in sound and image—voices, instruments, the dance.  Early on in Hebrew Scripture God calls:  “Hear, O Israel…” (Deut. 6:4)…In the Christian Testament:  “Faith comes by hearing, and hearing by the word of God (Romans 10:17).  And the Psalms constantly evoke singing: “Sing to the Lord a new song” (Psalms 96 and 98).  Luke can barely make it through two chapters of his gospel without breaking into song four times:  the great canticles of Mary, of Zechariah, and of old Simeon commingle with the angels’ spontaneous Gloria in excelsis….From the beginning the gospel takes on human form and is proclaimed and celebrated in the human idioms of ordered sound (Music and Theology, pg. 11).

Listening, listening when fully engaged is in its own way just like performing:  it focuses the listener physically by stimulating the senses; the rhythm and the pulse affect the listener’s nervous system. Again, Saliers:  “Ordered sound from ‘outside’ our bodies resonates and evokes the music ‘inside’ our bodies.  The inner music is constituted by the very make-up of the human body:  heartbeat, breathing, walking… (Music and Theology, pg. 13). “ 

Listening is as much a practice of music as is making music.  And it is only the listener who has the change to observe the work of opera as an whole…seeing the work of the visual design, listening to the story told by the librettist and the composer, sharing the story as embodied by the performers.

Perspective and Music., Part 1…Day 26

Posted July 10th, 2010 by admin | No Comments
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Sorry, gentle readers, I am somewhat obsessed with finishing my paper for my class today, so we are back to the topic of music and perspective.  I really can think of little else.  Today, I'll write about the librettist and the composer's perspective.  In tomorrow's entry, I'll write about the performer's and the audience's perspective.

Music is never a solitary act – except perhaps during practice times. Even in the recording studio, there are the other musicians, the engineers, and the hoped for audience – the listeners.  And each of these participants approaches the musical act from a different perspective

Perspective is something that is often discussed in the visual arts – the development of technical perspective during the renaissance, the deconstructed perspective of the Fauvists and the Cubists; but it is a seldom considered term in the musical world.  But, I think, an equally important one.

The importance of opera comes from the spontaneous combustion that comes when all of these varied perspectives meet in a single moment, in the theatre.

Opera as an art form, provides just such an intersection of perspective.  It combines the perspective of the librettist (the person who writes the text), the composer (the person who writes the music), the designer (the person who creates the look of the event), the performers (who must bring all of this to life)-- and, the very, very important perspective of the audience.

Opera usually begins first as the libretto.  Before the libretto may be a book, or in modern times, a play, a movie, even a newspaper article.  So today includes works such as Jake Heggie’s Dead Man Walking[1], from the book and the movie by the same name or John Adam’s The Death of Klinghoffer[2] and Nixon in China[3], even the recent Doctor Atomic[4].  And, if you believe that words are more powerful than music because they reach the intellect, then you will think that the librettist’s perspective may be the most important.  But I say that, like the blind men and the elephant, even the librettist only has a piece of the picture.

The librettist's job is to conceive the story and set the words down on paper.  And this job has changed over the centuries.  In the days of the famous librettist Metastasio, the librettist simply wrote was a long dramatic poem and then sold it to an opera house.  The opera house would then assign or offer the libretto to a composer in their employ, who would produce the music to libretto’s words, amending and cutting as necessary along the way. Librettos might be set more than once, by different composers, and in different times. 

By Verdi’s time, however, the process was changing.  Yes, if you were an unknown composer, you might still receive your libretto from the opera house and work much as in Metastasio’s day; but as Verdi’s fame grew, he often chose the original work for the libretto, and chose and worked directly with his librettist.  Today, a libretto may come from the composer, and in any case, the work of word crafting goes hand in hand with the work of musical composition.

To summarize, though, no matter what the process for the development of the work , the librettist’s perspective is that of storyteller.  And, without the words, there is no opera.

The composer’s job is to create music that adds a layer to the story-telling.  Particular since the time of Richard Wagner, the music is almost another character in the opera.  The music applied to the text of the librettist can move the action forward or pause it; the music can support the meaning of the words or conflict with it; the music can create comfort or tension.  So the composer can tell the same story as the librettist, or a different one. 

So the composer’s perspective is an important one.  The composer chooses the style of the music and the form of the opera, more so than does the librettist.  Some of that choice is dictated by the accepted musical and theatrical trends and styles of the day:  Mozart would not have created a through-composed[1] narrative opera, because, well, it was not conceived of stylistically until the late work of Giuseppe Verdi and the Ring Cycle of Richard Wagner: for Mozart, the style of recitative[2] and aria was, well, the only form that was possible.

The contemporary composer has this full palette of expression available, plus anything new that they can create.  And so, for the contemporary composer, the choice of form and musical style is often a reflection of their perspective on the text and the message of the theatre piece:  should the work be a through-composed narrative, should the style be tonal or atonal, or a mix, is there a reason to mix-in other musical elements and styles such as jazz or world music.  All of these are decisions that reflect the composer’s perspective on the text and the event or story portrayed in the opera. 


[1] A through-composed opera resembles more the dialog flow of a play; it does not separate itself into arias, trios, quartets, etc. as does the earlier forms of the Baroque and Classical periods.

[2] Recitative is dialogue set to music.  In Baroque and Classical opera, the recitative generally moves the action of the theatre piece forward, while arias and ensembles are expository moments on the emotions and feelings of the characters performing them.